Sunday, October 11, 2009

The 411 on SPF

There is lots of confusing information on SPFs. The curious factor is that 60% of my clients aren't wearing an SPF on a regular basis. It's amazing how much that I recommend the product and they believe that their make up provides enough coverage or since they aren't in direct sun light it isn't an issue. Listen to me when I tell you SPF is a big deal; I'd say it is one of the top three important anti-aging products and one of the top 2 in skin cancer protection! I'm not condemning anyone, I didn't use SPF for many years. But now that I know the science I wouldn't leave my house in a blizzard without it!


UVA & UVB
Its important to understand exactly what our skin needs protection from. An easy and quick way to understand the difference of UVA and UVB,
UVA are aging rays. UVB are burning rays.
For those of you so concerned with your Vitamin D absorption or in my opinion looking for an excuse not to use SPF. Lets be clear, for Vitamin D7 to synthesis, UVB ultraviolet light must be absorb into the skin. According to wikipedia, only 10-15 minutes 2 times per week on bare skin with out SPF is required for the synthesis to take place. But this absorption doesn't need to take place on the face; our arms, legs, any other body parts can do the job. Once passing the health benefits of the sun, it is beyond critical not to burn our skin especially our faces. When we burn, we've damaged our skin by causing inflammation which causes stress and damage on our collagen & elastin. We dehydrate the skin, which decreases our natural defence. Both cause damage to our skins cellular DNA, which can cause cancer and wrinkles. UVA rays make up 95% of the rays hitting our planet, therefore any SPF without specific protection is junk. Even if you are a person that works in an office and doesn't usually go into direct sunlight you are at risk.
UVA rays are produced in tanning beds, fluorescent lights, and they penetrate through the windows of our cars.
We are constantly bombarded by UVA, if aging isn't your concern protecting yourself from skin cancer should be at least.

what do use?
The factor of protection is often questioned. People see millions of SPF's in the stores and even checking the bottles can be exhausting. Look for a Broad Spectrum SPF. Using a SPF with Titanium Dioxide and Zinc the the best natural forms of full spectrum if parabens are an issue for you or if breakouts are an issue.

Here's a little guide:
SPF 20 - Great for the winter
SPF 30 - Summer daily life
SPF 30 water-proof - Exercising outside (*don't forget to apply to your necks)
SPF 45 - Beach full sun exposure


Misconceptions
SPF in your makeup provides zero assurance that you have enough protection. Especially mineral powders can wear off during the day leaving you more acceptable to UVA. And moisturizers again can not guarantee enough protection, most likely there is only UVB protection at most. It is important to be a savvy shopper, I understand buy professional products can be pricey. When you buy the product from a licenced individual you are guaranteed the ingredients are what is said on the package. There are great SPF's that are over the counter, remember SPF can oxidize therefore there are expiration dates. No more than 9 months I would say. The container should be non penetrable by light as well. Use your broad spectrum SPF daily, it should be your final step in your AM routine!

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